The Beginner's Herb Garden: An Herb Society of America Guide

Cultivation & Propagation

Propagation

Herbs may be propagated from seeds, cuttings, division or layering. Seeds may be started outdoors when the soil has become warm, or they may be started indoors 6 weeks before planting time in a tray containing a prepared mixture. When seeds planted indoors have developed two pairs of true leaves, transplant them to individual containers. Place them in a cold frame or protected area to let them become accustomed to cooler temperatures.

Plant seedlings in the garden when all danger of frost is past and the soil passes the "clutch test." If a handful of soil crumbles easily, it is ready to accept plants. If it stays in a lump, planting should be delayed.

Layering, using a stone  to anchor the branch.

Herbs can be reproduced by cuttings. Choose sturdy stems 3 or 4 inches long, and cut them just below a node. (A node is the swollen area on the stem from which the leaves and axillary buds develop. If the node is inserted into soil, roots can emerge from it also.) After removing the lower leaves, insert the stems in a pot or flat of moist vermiculite and perlite. Firm the medium around the cuttings, set them in the shade, and keep them moist. The use of a rooting hormone may speed the formation of roots but is not essential to successful propagation. If used, follow the manufacturers directions. When the plants are
well rooted, transfer them to small pots of good friable soil. Perennials may be propagated by division after 2 or 3 years of growth. Large clumps may need to be divided and the pieces replanted. Discard woody stems and roots that are too old.

Layering is done at any time during the growing season. Bend a healthy, young, low-growing stem to the ground, and anchor it with soil or a stone to keep it down. A clothespin or a hairpin can also be used. After new roots develop at the anchored area, cut the new plant from its parent. One way to layer semi-woody herbs such as thyme, lavender and winter savory is to mound soil over the plant interior, leaving the ends of the stems out. Kept this way from fall to spring, most of the stems will have formed roots and can be cut from the parent plant and set out individually. This can be a less expensive way to get a large number of plants such as are needed for a knot garden plan.

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